Pattern Pulp

Custom Dressmaking with Ashley Galloway




Meet Ashley Galloway. She’s both a friend and a source of creative inspiration. She currently lives in London and walked me through the Power of Making exhibition at the V&A a few weeks ago while I was in town visiting. With a background in photography spanning the magazine publishing and art worlds, her eye for curation is impeccable. On a recent family trip to Cape Town, she put her fashion sense to work pairing up with a local tailor to design custom clothing using African textiles. Here’s her personal account, I love the idea.

*            *            *

I have a love for textiles and through my travels I’ve collected many unique pieces.  In 2004 I was in Cape Town, South Africa and had a custom embroidered muumuu created at the Pan African Market.  When I returned this fall I went to the same clothier and created the two-piece, skirt and blouse from his range of fabrics.  I mixed and matched the fabrics to get the right combination.  For the outfit on the left, I chose two fabrics that had similar sized patterns, the same pallet of oranges and blues, and also complimentary flow in the patterns with a lot of vertical movement.

The outfit on the right is a faux polka dot pattern made of images of Guinea fowl, which are native to Africa (I had an encounter with some in a garden earlier that day).  I like using similar colors and mixing patterns to get the ‘it’s so wrong it’s right’ feel  – it’s bold but not over-the-top.

The dressmaker took my measurements and I described my vision of a high wasted pencil skirt to the knee and a simple, fitted blouse.  Further down Long Street I found the Mali Custom South African Designed Couture and was mesmerized by their fabric samples.  I bought several pieces of fabric for my collection and chose the fabric for the dress pictured in the middle.  I spoke to the tailor and described the design that I thought suited the fabric’s pattern – a halter dress, highlighting the paneled shapes of the pattern at the neckline, with a sash to accentuate the natural waistline created by the three sections of the fabric’s pattern.  He was as excited as I was about my new clothes!

Though I drew influence from the recent season’s trends of mixing textures and patterns and Burberry Prorsum’s Spring ’12 Collection, I have always been inspired by the vibrant textiles of Africa and I thought these bold patterns, made into modern silhouettes, would suit my life when I returned home.

 

Fashion: African Kimonos




Our collective fascination with culture crossing is nothing new, though every now and then it’s important to sit up and take note of new projects. Serge Mouangue is an artist worthy of this attention, as proven by his Wafrica collection, a breathtaking cultural shakeup. This styled photoshoot combines the strength of bold and bright African textiles with the grace of the traditional Japanese Kimono. Strength and grace. Two contrasts united in women. They may appear different on the surface but they do share some cultural similarities. Both societies are very tribal and have a respect for hierarchy and an appreciation of the power of silence,” says Mouangue when asked about the theme of this project. “And then there are the differences. In Japan there is no improvisation. Here, improvisation can mean trouble, shame, difficulties. But in Africa, it means life, renewal, health and spirit.”

Coverage by: Emily Gup

Tracking Repetitive + Awesome.
On Instagram.